Nebbiolo

What is Nebbiolo?

Nebbiolo is the great red grape of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It makes two of Italy's most revered wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, and grows almost nowhere else with the same success. The name comes from nebbia, Italian for fog, which fills the Langhe hills during harvest in October.

The paradox of Nebbiolo

In the glass, Nebbiolo looks deceptively pale, almost translucent garnet. In the mouth, it is anything but light. Young Nebbiolo has ferocious tannins and searingly high acidity that make it almost unpleasant without food or significant bottle age. Given time, five to twenty years for serious Barolo, it transforms: tar, dried roses, truffle, tobacco, and a haunting floral quality that no other grape replicates.

Key flavours: dried roses, tar, cherry, tobacco, leather, truffle, anise

Barolo: the wine of kings

Barolo must age at least 38 months before release (62 months for Riserva). The wines are some of Italy's most age-worthy, great vintages can develop for 30-50 years. Different communes produce distinct styles:

• Serralunga d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto: more structured and tannic, needs longer ageing
• La Morra, Barolo village: more perfumed and approachable relatively earlier

Producers to know: Giacomo Conterno, Bartolo Mascarello, Bruno Giacosa, Vietti, Gaja.

Barbaresco: Barolo's elegant sibling

Made from Nebbiolo grown slightly north, around the villages of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso. More calcareous soils produce wines with slightly softer tannins that become approachable a few years earlier. Angelo Gaja put Barbaresco on the international map.

How to approach young Nebbiolo

Decant for at least two hours. Pair with food that has enough fat and protein to buffer the tannins, braised beef cheek, white truffle dishes, aged Parmigiano. Never open a serious Barolo before its time.